Monday, February 13, 2012

The Dark Side of South Africa

Why South Africa is like 1950s US
1. Racism is blatantly and shamelessly expressed. 
South Africans often pride themselves on living in the ‘Rainbow Nation’ because SA is more diverse than many other African nations.  However, ‘rainbow’ gives a false impression that everyone has been living happily and peacefully after apartheid; in reality, there is still significant fear and ignorance about people of other races or religions.  Even in the post-apartheid era, some people feel justified in their racism and express it freely.  Sometimes they will preface their comments as “I’m not being racist or judgmental,” which is invariably followed by a racist or judgmental statement.  In Durban, people still self-segregate so interracial relationships—marriages, dating relationships, even platonic same-sex friendships – are extremely rare.  People of mixed black and white descent (‘coloured’) are at the bottom of the totem pole in Durban.  They are considered the people who commit crimes and abuse drugs and alcohol.  Since Akbar is well-liked and respected here, when Indians are being racist, I bring up that Akbar is actually biracial to challenge their preconceptions about how much one’s race actually reflects one’s character.

Alien, a single South African mother, raising a multi-racial family.
2. Across all races, gender roles are male-centered and male-dominated. 
During apartheid, women were traditionally held as inferior to men; these ideas stemmed from traditional African beliefs as well as misreading of the Bible.  A recent church bulletin (in a mostly Indian church) stated, “Feminism is dead wrong!”  Even though many women in SA work full-time and more are getting university educations, it is still commonly women’s responsibility to do all of the domestic work.  If both spouses work, the women still act as primary caretakers of the children, and do all of the cooking and cleaning while husbands sit at the table and wait to be served.  People are shocked when we tell them that our fathers can cook for themselves, and well.  They are even more shocked to learn that Akbar’s father lives on his own and does not need a ‘helper’ (i.e. maid), to cook and clean for him.  ‘How can a man ever survive without a woman?’ is their unspoken question.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Women_in_South_Africa)

Tai Long, 1 month old, growing up on the rough streets.
 3. Homophobia is rampant and often leads to violent crimes. 
Desmond Tutu, the former Anglican Archbishop of Cape Town and Nobel Peace Price winner, has said that homophobia is "every bit [as] unjust" as apartheid.  Since SA’s post-apartheid constitution outlawed discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation and legalized same sex marriage, the only African country to do so, SA has advertised itself to homosexual tourists as a “gay-friendly” nation.  Nevertheless, hate crimes are common and human rights organizations have criticized how the SA police and government handle these crimes.  Gay women in particular are frequently victims of beatings, rape, and murder.  In some cases, male perpetrators claim that rape will “cure” the woman of her sexual orientation.  In a country where most people come from a faith background, they somehow have forgotten that God loves everyone and calls us to love our neighbors as ourselves.
(http://www.afrol.com/articles/13584 & http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGBT_rights_in_South_Africa

 4. The ‘meat and potatoes’ diet is alive and well. 
Despite decades of research proving that a high fat, high carbohydrate diet and large portions lead to heart disease, diabetes, and premature death, people of all races here continue to indulge in generous portions of white bread, potatoes, sodas, red meat, and sugary desserts.  To justify their ‘carpe diem’ attitude, they blame poor genes as the cause of their central obesity, clogged arteries, and early-onset diabetes.  As an American, I did not think I could be impressed by another country’s obesity or ridiculous eating habits; South Africa has proved me wrong.  South Africans die of heart disease and uncontrolled diabetes as early as their 30’s – especially those of Indian descent.  It is actually quite unique and sad for a country to be plagued by both developing world illnesses, such as malnutrition, HIV and TB, and developed world illnesses, such as diabetes, heart attacks and strokes.
Pumpkin, 1 month old, hiding from the smoke and pollution.
5. Smoking is common and accepted. 
Many people smoke on a daily basis as if the link between smoking and cancer has not yet been discovered.  We frequently find ourselves sitting and chatting in a group, even with doctors, where we are the only non-smokers.  Unlike the US, there is no shame in smoking around non-smokers, whether they are babies, patients, or pregnant women.  (Or sometimes the pregnant woman is also the smoker.)  Although smoking is not permitted in restaurants or hospitals, the rule is not enforced.  Nevertheless, restrictions on smoking areas and advertising, have decreased overall smoking.  In 2000, 43.8% of men in SA smoked, down from 51.4% in 1993.  Progress is further evident in the 40% decline in cigarette consumption between 1990 and 1999.  SA has made smoking its 2nd health priority after HIV.  One man we met always complains that his wife and children are such horrible asthmatics, needing to carry their inhalers all the time, yet he smokes over a pack a day and refuses to recognize that he may be exacerbating their symptoms.  Another man who was recently diagnosed with TB, for the 2nd time, reports that smoking helps his chest feel less tight.  I often wonder what health consequences we may have after a year of regularly inhaling second hand smoke (and the sulfurous gases from the oil refinery half a mile down the road).
(http://archive.idrc.ca/ritc/sarelease3.pdf & http://www.cansa.org)


Obviously, these problems exist in other countries as well as SA.  However, they are pervasive here to a degree that, despite its relative wealth and political stability, the country’s development is adversely affected by them.  On paper, SA’s goals are that of a progressive, forward thinking 21st century nation that has far outpaced its African neighbors.  The attitudes of average citizens, the daily lives of those struggling in poverty, and the health outcomes and social indicators data tell a different story.
Samson, a fatherless South African child found on our doorstep.
South African Fact:  There is a national campaign to circumcise males between 15 to 49 years old in an effort to decrease the transmission rate of HIV.  Our hospital has an entire ward dedicated to adult circumcision and, surprisingly, men line up there daily, waiting to be circumcised.  The new interns are expected to perform 100 circumcisions each before the end of their 2 year internship. (I suggested that we give vasectomies at the same time; far too many fatherless children are raised in poverty by their grandmothers, or are abandoned to the streets.)
Circumcision campaign poster in hospital hallway.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Experiencing South Africa

Fraud, Part of Everyday Life
Most people know that crime, like theft, muggings, murder, and rape, is a part of daily life in SA.  What we did not know was that fraud is also very prevalent here. A SA newspaper claims that 15-18% of professionals here have fraudulent certifications.

In December, a doctor from the Congo was discovered to be falsely registered to work as a neurosurgeon in SA.  He had worked at 2 private hospitals and opened a private practice before his credentials were finally questioned due to incompetence.   He was already banned from practicing in Botswana and Zimbabwe.  This man did not have any residency training and he was pretending to be a brain surgeon!  Last year 6 Nigerians were found to be fraudulently practicing as physicians as well.  The same Health Professionals Council of SA (HPCSA) that has allowed all these fraudulent people from developing countries to work as doctors is the same organization that has given us so much trouble and not registered us when we are fully trained doctors from a 1st world country.

Most recently, the HPCSA has questioned the authenticity of our documents, including our passport.  It is a huge blow to your ego when someone questions everything from your identity to your education that has taken your entire life to accrue.  We have had to explain every document to them because they are obsessed with minutia - everything from the type of hospital stamp to the way our documents are notarized.  For example: our initial hospital documents had an embossed stamp, which was inadequate.  Then we had the documents re-couriered over with an ink stamp and gold seal, which apparently is still unacceptable. Nevertheless, they have agreed to register us to work if we get our documents notarized the South African way.  We hope and pray that this is all they need.  We appreciate all those who have been emailing, praying, and being supportive from afar. 

Zulus
Durban is located in the province of KwaZulu-Natal (KZN), which is home to the Zulus, one of the ethnic groups in SA.  Although the Zulu monarch does not have any official political power, he lives in KZN and receives a stipend from the government, similar to the royal family in the UK.
Zulu Drummers
Languages with Clicks
Most South Africans are multilingual. There are 11 official languages here and several of them have clicks.  Although English is the language of politics, economy, and the media, it only ranks 5th out of languages spoken at home (only 8.2% of people).

The accent of the Indian South Africans has been the easiest for us to understand because English is the primary and only language spoken by most Indians.  We have probably had the most difficulty understanding the white Afrikaners’ accent.  Afrikaans has its roots in 17th century Dutch.

In 2001, isiZulu was spoken by 23.8% of the population, making it the most common language spoken in the country; in the province where we live, KZN,  80.9% of the people speak it.  It is followed by isiXhosa at 17.6% and Afrikaans at 13.3%.
Zulu Dancers
The clicks come from the Khoi-San people who live predominantly in southern Africa.  Most people know them as ‘Bushmen,’ popularized by the 1980s movie, ‘The Gods Must Be Crazy.’ 15% of words in isiZulu and isiXhosa contain clicks.  The types of clicks are numerous and subtle.  Like tonal languages (such as Mandarin or Vietnamese), the differences are difficult for a non-native speaker to appreciate.  In Zulu, they are variously described as ‘a dental click’ (written as a ‘c,’ pronounced as a ‘tsk, tsk’ with the teeth), a ‘palatal click’ (written as a ‘q,’ pronounced like ‘a cork popping from a wine bottle’), a ‘lateral click’ (written as an ‘x,’ pronounced as ‘the clopping of horse hooves), etc.  IsiXhosa has even more variations.  Even the name of the people and their language, ‘Xhosa,’ starts with a click (try saying that out loud). 

As you can imagine, we have great difficulty making these sounds - without being laughed at or feeling like we are going to choke.  One of our construction workers goes by ‘Patrick’ in the city, but his Xhosa name is ‘Xatiana’; despite numerous attempts, we could not pronounce it correctly. Though these clicks are often ridiculed in the US, they are taken for granted by non-black South Africans; some Indians and whites can even manage them quite well.

Zulu Dancers

Zulu Basics
 
Sawubona                    Hello (one person).
Sanibonani                    Hello (many people).
Yebo                            Yes
Cha                              No


Story about Words
I was asking one our friends what South Africans called these small, green chiles I had.  She quickly said “joll-i-peen-nos.” I did not catch it initially because it was a multi-syllabic new word.  I asked again, and she said “joll-i-peen-no.” Then I saw Akbar smile and I realized it was her way of saying the Spanish word “jalapeƱo.”  There are no Spanish influences here, so of course the pronunciation would be different.

South African English Word                              American English Word
Robot                                                               Traffic Light
Boom                                                               Gate
Brinjal                                                              Eggplant
Boot                                                                 Car trunk
Bakkie (pronounced ‘buckey’)                         Pick-up truck
Theatre                                                            Operating room
Gynee                                                              Gynecologist
Packet                                                              Plastic grocery bag                              
Braai                                                                BBQ                                                   
Dagga                                                              Marijuana
SMS                                                                Text message
Serviette                                                           Napkin

South African Fact:
During apartheid, each race was assigned to a different neighborhood and beach.  Only the beaches for the whites had shark nets. 

Data from the University of Florida shows that there were 31 shark attacks from 1905 to 1990 between Cape Town and Port St Johns.  Although attacks have risen to 94 incidences from 1991 to 2010 due to human factors, SA still has fewer attacks than the US.